Explosives and otherwise disruptive weapons are paid special attention by The Man, especially in the US. It need not be said that crackdowns on terrorism, bomb-building nuts in the media, and various other detractors make explosives an unattractive tool for an organization that wishes to maintain a peaceful image. Producing and possessing explosives is almost certainly illegal in may places, and even possessing precursors may land you or your group in a world of hurt with The Man. To that extent, it is recommend that you avoid producing explosives, and consider other means to fight The Man.
- The information in this section is provided for educational purposes only. If you use this information and cause harm/damage, it is YOUR fault -- not the fault of those who have contributed to this section. Explosives are inherently dangerous*
RDX which is made from nitric acid and crushed hexamine (Esbit fuel pellets) in an exothermic reaction, one gallon of fuming nitric acid should be good for one pound of hexamine Esbit tablets. Add hexamine slowly keep acid temperature warm not hot, stir occasionally, take your time. Wash and ph stabilize the powder after it sits overnight. Crush the crystals in a non metallic mortar (RDX is high power and speed around 8750 Meters/sec but low sensitivity so safe to carry, burn, and even shoot at etc and it will cut steel) add %10 by weight (excluding the solvent content weight) acrylic emulsion adhesive, (look for one with a wide usable temperature) which is used for backing stickers. C-4 explosive is plastic (putty like) over a very wide range of normal temperatures traces of mineral oil may needed to make the mixture more malleable at low temperatures. C-4 must be detonated with a commercial/military blasting cap or detonator made with the instructions in the 31-210 manual in DIY Defense.
These designs are questionable as firebombs (unlikely to ignite from firecrackers) and certainly not useful as an explosive since sterno is simply methyl alcohol mixed with a gelling agent, the reason for sterno is that it is much less flammable and spill-able than liquid alcohol and the flames are not very visible when used at weddings to heat chafing dishes. Alcohol is much safer than gasoline when it comes to flammability.
For a nice stealth bomb, get a small gourd, cut off the top and hollow it out. Fill the round part with sterno jelly leaving the stem empty. Put a couple of firecrackers in the stem and wrap up the fuses around one central fuse. Poke a hole in the top piece of the gourd that you cut out earlier, and feed the fuse through. Seal off the fuse hole and the part you cut off with epoxy. Rig the fuse with a cancerette fuse or some other timing device.
This method also works with numerous other fruits and veggies. Also, other types of explosives can be used if you don't have sterno. One of the simplest bombs to make is the converted sterno can. It will provide some bang and a widely dispersed spray of jellied fire. Remove the lid from a standard, commercially purchased can and punch a hole in the center big enough for the firecracker fuse. Take a large spoonful of jelly out of the center to make room for the firecracker. Insert the firecracker and pull the fuse up through the hole in the lid. When in place, cement around the hole with epoxy glue. Put some more glue around the rim of the can and reseal the lid. Wipe the can and wash off excess with rubbing alcohol. A cancerette fuse should be used. The can could also be taped around a bottle with Molotov mixture and ignited.
- Liquid ammonia (found in almost any store)
- Regular Matches
- Jar with lid, preferably glass
- Using some scissors or a knife, cut off the match heads. The more matches, the bigger the stink bomb.
- Pour ammonia into the jar.
- With the lid in hand, dump the match heads into the jar of ammonia. QUICKLY put on the lid.
- Put in a safe spot for a minimum of one week. The longer you keep it in the jar, the smellier it gets. Make sure the lid is on tight. Don't keep it over three weeks.
- Dump or spill on any surface, and it will stink.
other stinky materials
- Gone off milk
- Butyric acid at any chemical supply store or fishing store.
- Mixing a batch of egg whites, Drano and water. Leaving to sit.
Sometimes it becomes strategically correct to confuse the opposition and provide a smoke screen to aid an escape. A real home-made stroke bomb can be made by combining four parts sugar to six parts saltpeter (available at all chemical supply stores). This mixture must then be heated over a very low flame. It will blend into a plastic substance. When this starts to gel, remove from the heat and allow the plastic to cool. Embed a few wooden match heads into the mass while it's still pliable and attach a fuse.*
The smoke bomb itself is a non-explosive and non-flame-producing, so no extreme safety requirements are needed. About a pound of the plastic will produce thick enough smoke to fill a city block. Just make sure you know which way the wind is blowing. Weathermen-women! If you're not the domestic type, you can order smoke flares (yellow or black) for $2.00 a flare [12 inch] from Time Square Stage Lighting Co., 318 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036.
Firstly, KNO3 is available at most "ACE" hardware stores as "Grant's Tree Stump Remover". It unfortunately goes at $10 per pound. Secondly, adding a teaspoon or so of baking soda reduces the amount of flames released from the smoke bomb ( it does indeed release flame, regardless of the statements in the original material).
The smoke bomb DOES have safety issues, but they can be overcome easily. It usually emits at least some flame, and even if it doesn't many mixtures get VERY hot. One precaution to take here is to add baking soda reducing the flame. I also suggest a THICK cardboard casing.
Adding ground black pepper or replacing the sugar with brown sugar thickens the smoke, but also makes it smell revolting. It does not however, add any irritant properties.
KNO3 and sugar can be mixed into a damp dough with water, this dough can be rolled into little balls from BB size to pea size smaller pellets will burn faster, allow to dry in a warm oven or in the sun. Pack a soda can with these pellets with some black powder and you have a smoke pop-open grenade which will make an instant escape cloud and is well disguised as soda something OK to walk around with. A cool fuse is to pin or epoxy matches to the end of a cannon fuse, then slip a strip of striker paper from a book of matches along side it inside a straw, epoxy the straw/fuse into the open can once it is filled with black powder and smoke pellets. Rip out the strike strip to fast ignite, if that fails you will need to use your lighter and toss, build these with a three to five second fuse delay since having one go off near you can cause flash burns or worse if the pellets get into your clothes.
If you need a better disguised smoke device resistant to even a quick check empty a soda can from the side and drink the soda from a cup, now carefully cut the unopened top off, if you get good you can make this fit onto an opened can with the tab ripped off and glue it down.
Ping-Pong ball Smoke Bomb
Believe it or not there is an easier way to make a simple smoke bomb without all of the chemicals, you will need 6 ping-pong balls, scissors, tin foil, a straw, and a fuse (this article tells how to make fuse somewhere below). Using the scissors, cut 5 of the ping-pong balls into small pieces and drill a hole the size of a straw in the top of the sixth one. Then take the cut up pieces and put ALL OF THEM in the ball with the hole in it. Then cut the straw down so about an inch and a half can be seen sticking out of the top. NOTE: If you're using a bendy-straw make sure you don't use any part of the bent section. Next, you cover all of it with tin foil including the straw. DO NOT cover the open part of the straw or it won't work. Make sure all of it is covered or it also might not work. Then you put your fuse in and make sure it's in there good. Finally, you set the bomb down with the open straw facing upward and light the fuse.
Real competition ping-pong balls are nitrocellulose like gunpowder, burns great and non-toxic.
Alternate KNO3 smoke device
Take the powdered, but not yet caramelized mixture described below ( actually its probably best to increase the ratio of nitrate to sugar, as the paper acts as a fuel), and soak it into a sheet of newsprint. The newspaper emits smoke and removes most of the flames. Once dry, 8 hours on a hot dry day, there will be almost unnoticeable crystals formed on the paper. This will take several days when you get shitty weather. (optionally, match heads are put on the paper to increase burn rate.) The paper is then folded to a 2 inch wide strip, and rolled into a tube. this is held together with a rubberband or a paperclip
The smoke forms a hot jet going down the center, spreading the heat throughout the smoke bomb, causing it to burn faster. If done properly, this will cover a 20x20 foot area with smoke for 30-45 seconds. ( I assume there is wind when I say this.)
You can make a good homemade fuse by dipping string or shoe lace in clean water and then rolling it lightly in gunpowder and braiding it. When the powder drys, wrap the braided string tightly and neatly with scotch tape. This fuse can be used in a variety of ways. Try pouring the solution in a hollowed out potato. Find the dumbest group of pigs in a riot, throw it in that direction, and sneak attack them while they're standing around amazed by the smoking potato.
A properly low voltage switch gate silicon controller rectifier or thyristor will take the low voltage from a kitchen timer speaker line or cell phone vibrator or ringer and switch on a larger usable power supply from a battery or AC power, if the audio circuit is so low that it won't flip the SCR gate add an amplifier transistor. This is perfect for setting off timed tear gas during an event, or a phone or pager controlled smoke bombs to cover a retreat.
An altitude switch can easily be made with a can, tape, a plastic bag, wire, and two strips of metal. Securely tape and seal the plastic bag into the can with half of the air pushed out. Place one strip as a bridge over the top of the can, the other strip like a lever that the expanding bag can push across to touch the bridge strip. When the altitude gets high enough (a few thousand feet) the circuit will close and current can flow. An interesting use is place this onto a logging truck heading into the mountains, igniting a string of firecrackers.
The expansion of dry beans in water can also be used as a timer, you need a clean unpainted metal disk like a can lid, two shiny nails and a straight walled plastic container. As the seeds or beans expand the metal disk will be pushed up against the nails which completes the circuit. Seal the container with tape unless air transport is expected.
All timers must be tested with the operational battery and a buzzer, or light bulb in place of its igniter/blasting cap several times. Always test the circuit to be sure that it is off before connecting the electrically activating the timer. A double activation circuit if there is room doubles the chance of success.
If building subversive devices eliminate the evidence, have friends buy generic new sealed pup tent, a large sealed tarp, a nylon stocking, sealed plastic or rubber gloves, hooded tyvek painting suit, and new sealed rubber boots. First take a good shower and scrub good with a washcloth everywhere eliminating dead skin, get out and let yourself air dry put on a hair net. Put on a set of gloves and pull the stocking over your face. have a friend blast you off with an air hose. Put on your tyvek suit, nobody may touch any of the sealed suit boots or gloves without wearing rubber gloves. Have a gloved friend put your boots and gloves on to you and duct tape the joints of the boots and gloves, you will look like a haz-mat guy once you duct tape the boots and gloves onto your suit. Again air blast off away from the tent and other devices. The suited person now rolls out the tarp and once the clean tarp is out places the boot package onto the tarp and dons and tapes the boots to his suit, next he opens his tent and assembles it. All device assembly takes place in the tent. Sealed ingredients and parts are opened by suited and gloved people only inside the tent. Trash sack all completed devices and place in a padded box. All remnants that can be burned should be if possible in a way that the black smoke will not alert the fire department. Remember you are trying very hard to keep the DNA and fingerprints off of your device. Fingerprints remain in gloves, hair and skin flakes remain in all of these items of clothing saliva might remain on the stocking.
A study of crime lab technique will help in developing evidence-sterile technique but remember that contaminated evidence is not a problem to the police who will rule out investigator prints and DNA. Bleach, lye, and caustic oven cleaner can help destroy DNA but do not rely on denaturing the evidence, don't leave any in the first place.